How To Install Your Electric Bike Conversion Kit

Fitting a Lecky Rider kit is a spanners-and-Allen-keys job, not an electronics project. Every connector is plug-and-play — no soldering, no rewiring — and most people are done in around 90 minutes first time. This guide walks you through it. And if you would rather not, bring the bike to the workshop and we fit any kit for a flat £100.

⏱ About 90 minutes🔧 Basic tools only🔌 Plug-and-play, no soldering🛠 Or we fit it for £100

✅ Before you start: will it fit?

Check your dropouts first. Take the rear wheel out and look at the slot the axle sits in. You need tapered dropouts — a straight vertical slot will not hold a 2000W hub. Rear dropout spacing should be 135–145mm.

Wheel size. Read your tyre sidewall for 26", 27.5" or 29" and make sure your motor wheel matches.

Frame. Most hardtail mountain bikes 18" and up take any kit. Smaller frame? The 25Ah triangle pack fits 16" and up.

Battery fit. Cut the battery shape from cardboard and hold it against your frame before you start — every kit page has a measured drawing of its battery with exact dimensions. Find your kit's drawing here, or WhatsApp us a photo of your bike and we will tell you straight.

🧰 Tools you'll need

  • 15mm spanner or adjustable wrench (for the axle nuts)
  • Allen key set (4mm–6mm)
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Cable ties (included in the kit)
  • Optional: crank puller for the PAS install, tyre levers, bike stand

📦 What's in the box

  • Motor wheel, laced and trued, with rim tape
  • Battery — 52V or 72V depending on the kit you chose
  • 45A sine-wave controller with its bag (80A on the 3000W kit)
  • M8 colour LCD display
  • Sur-Ron throttle with Pro Taper grips
  • Pedal assist sensor (PAS)
  • Heavy-duty torque arms
  • 2× NFC key cards
  • Charger with UK plug

🔩 Step-by-step installation

1⚡ Safety first

  • Disconnect your current battery, if the bike has one
  • Turn the bike upside down or put it in a stand
  • Wear gloves and eye protection if necessary

2🛞 Install the motor wheel

  1. Remove your existing rear wheel
  2. Insert the motor wheel into the dropouts
  3. Fit the torque arms securely on both sides to prevent axle spin — they are essential at this power
  4. Tighten the axle nuts with a 15mm wrench
  5. Check the disc rotor and cassette are aligned properly

💡 Pro tip: the rim tape goes on before your tyre and inner tube — it's already included.

3🔋 Mount the battery

  1. Use the bottle mount bolts to attach the battery cradle to your down tube (triangle packs use the included mounting hardware, rack or straps instead)
  2. Slide the battery onto the cradle until it clicks and locks
  3. Connect the battery's power cable to the controller using the XT60 connector
  4. Test the lock and remove the key
Battery mounted on the down tube of a converted bike

4🎛 Install the controller

  1. Place the controller inside the included bag
  2. Feed the wires from the other parts through the controller bag — motor cable, battery cable, display, throttle and PAS sensor
  3. Match connectors by shape and colour — it's fully plug-and-play

5🦶 Install the pedal assist sensor (optional)

  1. Remove the left crank arm
  2. Slide the magnetic disc over the crank axle
  3. Mount the PAS sensor on the frame near the bottom bracket
  4. Reattach the crank, making sure the disc passes closely by the sensor when pedalling
  5. Plug the PAS cable into the controller

6📟 Mount the display and throttle

  1. Slide the M8 display onto your handlebar and tighten it
  2. Mount the Sur-Ron throttle and Pro Taper grips, replacing your existing ones
  3. Use zip ties to tidy your wiring

7🔗 Final connections and cable management

  • Double-check all connections are secure
  • Power on the display and test the system response
  • Use zip ties to keep wires away from moving parts

🏁 Test and ride checklist

Before your first ride:

  • Battery charged to 100%
  • Display turns on and shows speed, PAS levels and battery voltage
  • Throttle responds gradually
  • PAS engages the motor when pedalling
  • Brake sensors, if installed, cut power correctly
  • Torque arms tightened

First test ride — on private land:

  • Begin at PAS level 1 and increase gradually
  • Test throttle-only mode on flat ground
  • Climb a hill to test full torque response
  • Check all bolts again after the first mile

🔋 Battery care and range

  • Charge time: 4 to 7 hours from empty depending on the pack — the exact figure is on your kit's page
  • Range: varies by pack and how you ride — every kit page lists honest throttle-only and pedal-assist figures
  • Storage: store the battery at 50–80% charge if unused for more than a month
  • Cycle life: rated for 800–1000 full charges depending on the pack
  • Best practice: avoid running it completely flat to extend battery life, and only ever use the charger supplied
Read before you ride These kits are rated well above the 250W and 15.5mph limit that defines an electrically assisted pedal cycle in the UK. Fitted to a bicycle they are not road legal and must not be ridden on public roads, cycle paths or bridleways. Sold for use on private land with the landowner's permission, or for motorsport. Charge the battery on a hard non-flammable surface, never unattended and never overnight, and only with the charger supplied.

🎥 Watch it done

The full install, on video

We film installs, before-and-afters and fixes every day for 32.3K riders on TikTok — including the exact steps in this guide, done on real customers' bikes.

Watch on TikTok · @leckyrider

Rather we did it?

Bring the bike to the workshop and we will fit the whole kit for a flat £100 — wired in, tested, and you ride it away. In before 12pm and it is ready the same day.

34 Brindley Road, Manchester, M16 9HQ · 08:00–18:00
Book a fitting on WhatsApp Get directions
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